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Author: Subject: Soldering Wires
theJ
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puzzled.gif posted on 3-25-2003 at 03:28 PM
Soldering Wires


Okay, I wired up an amp and subwoofer inside an S-10 I had, and also replaced all the factory speakers with new Pioneer ones. When I connected the wiring for the speakers, I used crimp caps, like the installer in town used. I was later putting a new receiver into my Civic and tried to solder the wires, but was having a terrible time with it...I used an el cheepo soldering iron from Wal-Mart...Is there something you can do to make it solder better or do I need to get a better soldering iron??? Do I just not know how to solder???
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Soundworks
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[*] posted on 3-25-2003 at 04:16 PM


The soldering iron does make a big difference.

The hotter the tool, the better the solder will flow into the wire strands.

I'd recommend picking up one from Radio Shack (ie. item# 64-2802 30-watt) as well as thin rosin core solder (I use item# 64-005)

Take a look at the images below. They explain how to solder.

1) Strip the wires back an equal amount, around 1/2"-3/4"

2) Twist the wire ends together, end to end. (not like a twist tie on a loaf of bread...)

3) Touch the solder and the soldering iron to separate parts of the bare wire. This will heat up the wire.

4) While holding the soldering iron on the wire, feed in solder until it penetrates and covers the bare wires.

5) Here's the soldered wires. Make sure there are no 'points' of solder sticking out fron the joint. They can stick through the tape and cause problems!

6) Insulate the joint with a good electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. If using heat shrink, don't forget to put a cut length on the wire before making the joint...

soldering.jpg - 25kB




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homewrecker
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[*] posted on 2-17-2005 at 07:39 PM


Soldering is 90% about technique, and you only get better with practice.

For small wires, almost any iron will do. Just don't go too high on the wattage or you risk damaging the components with too much heat. Even a cheapo little 13W (usually around $10) will do the trick nicely.

Also, since we are working with electronics, make sure you are using Rosin Core solder. The brand does not matter so much.

The basic idea is that melted solder will be drawn to heat, so heat the wire or connector with the iron and then touch the solder to the work - do not simply touch the solder to the iron and attempt to "drip" it on your connection or it will not adhere well at all.

For simple connections like this, here's a great trick to make the job WAY easier. First "tin" the wires and/or connectors that are to be joined. This means you first heat up and apply a small amount of solder to each wire separately before you attach them.

Once both wires have a thin coat of solder on them (they should now look silver instead of copper), twist them together to make a good physical connection, then simply hold your heated iron to them and the solder will melt and bond them to each other. Tada! All done. This is known as "sweating" them together.

In my opinion, that way is much quicker and easier than trying to apply the solder AFTER you already have everything put together in a delicate/precarious arrangment.

Good luck.
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CustomCircuits
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[*] posted on 9-5-2007 at 09:45 PM


I know this is an old topic but here's a few things I do to same time or solder in tight situations. I use about 3 soldering tools every day. A small 110v iron with tiny tip for doing electronics assembly and repair. A 110v dual temp "gun style" soldering iron for medium to large wires and a butane cordless iron for jobs requiring lots of moving around or large vehicles.

If your in a situation that has large wires and your "gun style" soldering iron can't handle it, you need a torch, AND your in a tight spot and are afraid to burn or melt nearby components, you can place a foil covered piece of wood above your wires to be soldered and this will reflect the heat and keep your area safe. I've done this many times and it's worked well. For quick jobs, you can use thick plastic or other materials if it's only a wire or two. I try and use cordless irons as much as possible especially with new vehicles because your not inducing voltage into the system as you might with a large "gun style" iron. I've tested a few of my irons and actually got AC voltage on the tip of the iron.
This may be a little too cautious but with newer vehicles you never know what may happen...




Technology is great when it works!

Customcircuits
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melody
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[*] posted on 10-7-2009 at 07:02 AM


Thanks for the photos soundworks, that'll totally help. I won't be having a hard time visualizing the steps on how to do it.



Regards,
Melody
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